Theatre, as we like to say here at MustSeeTheatre.com, comes in many shapes and forms; live re-enactments, for example. Arguably, in that field, the jousting tournaments that tour historic attractions in the summer months are just that, wonderful, immersive pieces of outdoor theatre that arguably, are more physical than any other.
THE KNIGHTS OF THE NORTH | LINLITHGOW PALACE
★★★★★
” An exhilarating and colourful glimpse into the past…”
Powerful war horses, resplendent in their protective barding, thunder towards each other. Astride each, a knight, lance drawn and heraldic shield at the ready, girds his loins for the oncoming clash – as entertainment goes, jousting is the most thrilling of outdoor spectacles.
Of course, today it’s pure theatre, albeit theatre with an ever present risk. That sense of danger is just one of the reasons the crowds turn out in their hundreds, if not thousands, to greet acclaimed equine stunt troupe The Knights of the North whenever they ride onto ‘The Peel’ of Linlithgow Palace.
The Peel, the name given to the royal park that surrounds the magnificent ruins of the palace, dates back to 1302 when England’s King Edward I, also known as the ‘Hammer of the Scots’, secured the area as a strategic military base; Peel coming from the Old French for a palisade or wooden fortification, ‘pele’. Nothing now remains of that 14th Century timber fortress but scanning the hilly landscape that falls away to the banks of Linlithgow Loch, it’s easy to see its defensive capabilities.
Built on the orders of James I, the once majestic palace that replaced Edward’s stronghold is now itself mostly roofless and extensively ruined. Stripped of its former opulence, it remains a powerful statement of intent by the Stewart dynasty, until it quickly fell into decline when, in 1603, James VI moved the royal court to London following his coronation as James I of England. It was burnt out in 1746 leaving the sheil we find today.
It’s against the picturesque backdrop of the palace, the peel and the loch that the Knights of the North give an exhilarating and colourful glimpse into the past as it might have been. An immersive experience with healthy dose of rabble-rousing from the master of ceremonies, those gathered on the peel to watch the action prove eager to play their part.
It’s a good humoured affair. Cheers go up for the good guys, take your pick from Sir Antoine Le Grand, recently returned from the Holyland, Sir Archibald Douglas of Galloway, whose ancestors fought with Robert the Bruce, and Sir James Ramsay of Dalhousie who always has a tale to tell. Equally, the booing that resonates whenever ranting baddie Sir Checkmate Fitzpercy of Alnwick is called to the tiltyard is pure pantomime – tiltyard being the makeshift arena in which jousts take place.
Originally conceived in the 11th century as a training exercise for knights and their steeds, the aim of what is now a ‘contact sport’ is to determine which of the mounted knights can snap the lance of their opponent first. Just to be on the safe side, the lances are blunted and designed to snap when struck.
It’s riveting stuff and as two horses gallop along on opposite sides of the tilt, breaths are held in anticipation of that first strike or even, the unseating of a knight from his steed – great rambunctious fun for all the family.
The medieval vibe spreads beyond the tiltyard too, courtesy of a pop-up medieval village, complete with villages attired in period dress offering an opportunity to explore and experience medieval life first-hand. They call it a Living History Camp, and it’s here you can try your hand at the arts and crafts of the day or, if you’re an aspiring knight, why not pop into the Squire School to test your skills with a sword and shield. There’s even a chance to test your strength by throwing a javelin.
And that’s not all. Head to the Foot Arena beside the tiltyard and a falconry display adds to the feeling that you’ve travelled a long way back through the years. There’s also a chance for the wee ones to sign up for the kids’ army to just to watch as well drilled re-enactors relive the struggles King Robert the Bruce experienced during his reign. And let’s not forget the equine stars of the day; visit the stables where the knights’ horses await to be admired.
All that said, even without all the medieval shenanigans, the palace and peel are well with a visit in their own right. It’s there, as you leave the High Street to make your way up the cobbled approach to the historic attraction that the impression of stepping back through time begins. On the East Wall of the Kirkgate blue plaques carry the royal blood line of descent from ‘Charles III’ to Mary Queen of Scots – with every few steps you travel a little further into Scottish history. Evocative of generations long gone, these 14 plaques eloquently connect present and past giving an added context to any visit.
The ruined, yet still utterly imposing and strangely haunting, palace that was the birthplace of Mary, Queen of Scots is now cared for by Historic Environment Scotland and remains impressive despite its antiquity, its golden-yellow sandstone shell sharply pronounced against the blue of the sky.
Standing up to five storeys high in places, what there is of the interior is dark and tantalising. Shadowy, cool rooms, stripped back to the stone are steeped in history – touch a wall and feel the history, indeed it’s impossible not to imagine you are, just maybe, touching the very same spot Mary herself may have touched all those centuries ago.
To access these rooms, purported to be haunted by a Blue Lady believed to be the ‘grieving spirit’ of Queen Margaret Tudor, and the ghost of Mary of Guise, the mother of Mary, Queen of Scots, requires a walk across the palace’s central courtyard, from where the majesty of the royal residence is still evident today.
From here the architectural detail is fascinating – most impressive is a fountain, believed first installed by James V circa 1530, which once burbled with water and, occasionally, wine.
One of the four towers surrounding the courtyard, the northwest tower also known as the ‘Queen’s Turnpike’, leads to high viewing platforms affording stunning views across West Lothian – that’s assuming you’re happy to brave the narrow, claustrophobic turnpike stairwell that spirals skyward.
The view, however, is as spectacular, if not more so than the jousting display below. Gazing out over the loch, it is clear to see how Linlithgow got its name – it means ‘the loch in the damp hollow’. You may also spot the ancient St Michael’s Church in the palace grounds, its motto, ‘St Michael is kinde to strangers’ alone suggests it is worth a visit. The grounds are also where you will find Scotland’s first and only ‘life-size’ (it stands seven feet tall) standalone public statue of Mary, Queen of Scots – a bronze sculpted by David Annand based on an initial maquette by Anne Davidson.
When it’s time to return to the present, the plaques once again do their thing, only this time they start in 1542 and travel up to present day and, on the off chance you’ve been wondering about that royal line of descent, here it is: Mary, Queen of Scots 1542-1587, James VI of Scotland and I of England; 1566-1625, Elizabeth 1596-1662, Sophia 1630-1714, George I 1660-1727, George II 1683-1760, Frederick 1707-1751, George III 1738-1820, Prince Edward 1767-1820, Queen Victoria 1819-1901, Edward VII 1841-1910, George V 1865-1936, George VI 1895-1952, Elizabeth II 1926-2022 Charles III 1948…
Full details of events and visits to Linlithgow Palace HERE
